This is our Prague Blog. Czech it out!

Being the unbelievable adventures of two young travelers in Prague and elsewhere...

Thursday, March 31, 2005

What Janey did on her vacation in Prague

On the way to the library, I overheard a one sided conversation between an American woman with dyed red hair who looked to be ïn her fifties, and her husband, who had gray hair and looked to be in his sixties. I had never seen them before, but it was not too surprising that such people existed:

"´So, Janey, where did you shop in Prague?´" Janey said, pretending to be a friend back home. "Oh, you know," Janey responds for her future self. "Jewelery stores, clothing stores, and (slight pause for effect) the gun store." Then Janey laughed at her own future witticism. Her husband took a neutral stance on whether this was funny or not. The jewelry stores and the clothing stores were probably her idea, whereas the gun store was his.

I wonder if, while at the gun store, Janey was conscious of how scandalized her friends would be on first hearing about it - and how less scandalized they would be after getting more details - and was going over in her head how she would drop the bomb. Kind of like how when I´m doing or overhearing anything, I´m thinking of how it will affect my blogging.

Janeyś friends are evidentally so predicable that Janey already knows that when she returns from her adventure in a strange foreign land, they will only think to ask about her shopping. Perhaps she is predictable enough for them to know that there will be nothing else to ask about. Now, I have never met Janeyś friends, but from what I know about Janey and her husband, I´m pretty sure Janey has them pegged. She also, calculating witch that she is, already knows exactly how to sum up her trip (and this might only be her first day in Prague!) in such a way to knock their wigs off and establish herself as queen of the hair salon for a day. She´s got her obvious yet slightly quirky retort all set and ready to play her easily amused friends like so many harps from hell.

Since her pre-planned conversation is all but guaranteed to happen exactly as she has cleverly devised, we can probably predict how the rest of it will play out:

"Goodness gracious, Janey," her best friend Maude will exclaim. "I can hardly believe you made it back from Czechoslovakia in one piece! Is it still communist over there?"

"Oh, no, there is plenty of shopping to do in Prague, thatś for sure," Janey slyly responds, taking the conversation just where she wants it. Perhaps Maude will beat around the bush for a few more lines, but the trap is set, and her fate is sealed. Maude is going to ask the question Janey has been waiting to hear.

"Well, then, I´m glad to hear it. Maybe I will go to the Prague Republic one of these days. So tell me all about it! Where did you shop?"

Janey can hardly prevent herself from pumping her fist in the air triumphantly. We have already heard a rough draft of her surprising response, but maybe on the plane she devised a few flourishes.

"Oh, you know, just the ordinary places you see in Prague, nothing too unusual. Jewelery stores, clothing stores, and (here coems that pause) the gun store."

Just as Janey forsaw, Maude is flabbergasted.

"Janey, you have got to be joking," she practically shouts.

"Nope, it´s true," Janey says with a knowing smile. "Just ask Russell. We went to all the jewelery and clothing stores you could imagine!"

Maude puts her hands on her hips. "I meant about the gun store!"

"Oh, that," Janey says casually, feigning modesty. "I almost forgot about that little adventure."

"I mean, sure, my husband owns a gun store," Maude says, calming down a little. "But this is Texas. What in the name of Godś green earth were you doing in a gun store... IN PRAGUE?!"

"I would tell you," Janey says with a cocked eyebrow and a devilish grin. "But then I would have to kill you."

And Janeyś small Texas town will never be the same again.

That is the most likely possibility, anyway. There are others.

For instance, what if Janeyś friends arent the least bit amused? What if, somehow, all of her friends are disaffected 20-something hipsters, and she doesn´t even get a titter?

Or maybe this conversation won´t take place at all. Maybe Janey will get caught smuggling absinth, hash, and Roma orphans out of Prague, and be thrown in the United Nations slammer for life.

This got me thinking about what I am going to say when I get back from Prague and everyone asks me where I shopped. "Oh, you know, Joe, I shopped at Country Life, Tesco and (slight pause for effect) the scarf store!!"

After this I saw a British man who had a bright red face and talked with a stuffy British accent, like all the old British men I´ve seen here. Then I saw an overly tan, prematurely aged woman walking with her teenage daughter, who was dressed like a hippie who especially admires native-americans. I dont see why everyone is so down on tourists. I think theyŕe interesting.

Wednesday, March 30, 2005

Look, I know everyone just wants to hear about Romania now, but I am still in Prague and I have something to say!

There’s no denying it: people come to Prague from all over the world. Some come for the cheap beer. Some, for the trendy CCCP hoodies. Others, to investigate their Czech heritage without messing with their backward distant half-relatives in the countryside. Still others, for Charles University’s world-renowned English department. Some, like me, don’t have a clue why they came. Most people, however, come to Prague for one reason, and one reason only: to worship this little wax doll.

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This is The Infant Jesus of Prague, one of the most recognized idols in Prague. Though this wax doll was born in the 1500s, Princess Polixenie Lobkowitz brought it to Prague in 1628. Here it was venerated by the Carmelites, a sect of Catholics uniquely concerned with the words of Matthew 18:3: “Unless you become like one of these little children you will not enter the Kingdom of Heaven.” The doll got credit for all sorts of crazy miracles, bringing thousands to Prague, anxious to stoop before this effigy of a grandly decorated baby Jesus.

Zdenek took me, Rachel and Nicole to the Church of the Infant Jesus of Prague on a tour that also included the John Lennon wall and a church that is now an apartment complex. We were most struck by the museum upstairs, which was nothing but dozens of ornate mini-robes - speckled with gold and jewels, encased in glass - for the Infant Jesus statue to wear on different occasions. A television in the wall plays a looped video of pious nuns changing the Infant Jesus doll’s attire (protecting the holy infant’s modesty with discrete jump cuts) to prepare for more full days of granting completely unreasonable blessings. Well, a wax doll’s gotta do what a wax doll’s gotta do.

In the center hollow of the spiral stairwell is a wooden adult half-naked Jesus nailed to a crucifix in agony -- tossing a cross to all the adult Jesus worshippers who pass through -- but mainly it´s all about the serene, unbloody, formally attired babe at The Church of the Infant Jesus at Prague. Presumably, baby Jesus is divine through and through, without (unlike his adult counterpart) the stain of a hotly contested last temptation, though he probably had original sin to contend with.

Someone could make a good horror film about this doll getting fed up with all the constant blessing, coming to life, and poking out the eyes of all its devotees with those two extended fingers, while slamming them in the back of the head with that spiked golden orb. It would be a logical evolution. The ability to magically grant wishes as flawlessly as that doll does can only come from the Evil One himself, IMHO. God’s more about mysterious ways.

The fact that devout Catholics worship a statute of an angelic little boy is a bit disturbing — even more disturbing than them worshipping a dead bloody adult poked through with nails, I think. Certainly the infant Jesus is a more pleasant image. He’s happy, dressed all fancy, has his hand raised in a perpetual offer of blessing, and, you know, he’s not being tortured to death. In these “dark times” (overheard at a restaurant), it’s refreshing to see an image of Jesus get so popular without resorting to gratuitous gore. The absurd thing about this statue, though, which I think discredits the Infant Jesus of Prague Church entirely, and Catholicism on the whole as well, is that Prague’s baby Jesus wears a cross around his neck! That’s right, Baby Jesus wears the symbol of a religion that wasn’t yet a twinkle in the world’s eye, and was to be the bed of his own death three decades later!

The Infant Jesus Prayer Books, available for free in every credited language in the back of the Church, provide more insight into the mindset of the doll worshippers. Technically, you can pray to infant Jesus however you want, but modern language confuses His highness, and if you want to be fully understood, these prayers are your road to more accurate blessings and magic gift-giving. Unfortunately, you can only do these prayers in the Church of the Holy Infant Jesus, or with a Holy Infant Jesus candle, or a miniature likeness of the original statue, available in souvenir shops all over Prague (though only the kind with a removable cloth suit will do, not the kind where the suit is painted on the ceramic).

Here is a prayer you are supposed to say on DAY SEVEN of your visit to the Church: “On Your breast, O Infant Jesus, shines a Cross. It is the standard of our redemption. I also, O Divine Savior, have my cross, that, although light, very often weights me down. Help me to bear it and may the carrying of it be fruitful. You well know how weak and worthless I am. Our Father, Hail Mary and Glory Be to the Father. By Your Divine Infancy.”

The Carmelites want to have it both ways – a Jesus before he was the blood-spattered messiah he grew up to be, yet still as wise, holy and tortured. Fatefully, adult Jesus declined to be king, yet here is baby Jesus dressed in the finest Royal attire. Indeed, how could anyone have ever questioned Jesus´s messiah-hood with an infant wardrobe like that? This suggests either confusion or wishful thinking on the Carmelites´s part. Unless, that is, they are not worshipping the actual infant Jesus who existed for a temporary time before he became pre-pubescence Jesus, but rather are worshipping the crucifix-wearing doll itself.

On DAY FIVE of your visit to the Church, this is how you pray: “I gaze upon You, O Most Sweet Redeemer, dressed in a mantle of purple. It is Your royal attire. How it speaks to me of blood! That Blood which You have shed solely on my account. Grant, O Infant Jesus that I may respond to Your great sacrifice and not refuse, when You offer me some difficulty, to suffer with You and for You.”

What great sacrifice did the Infant Jesus make? Did he offer his holy golden spiked orb to a covetous infant in Bethlehem? No, his sacrifice involved bloodshed, suggesting nothing other than his famous crucifixion, of course! How could infant Jesus have been crucified when he was later to grow up and be crucified as an adult? Was it a miracle? Not that I know of, though I admittedly haven’t read all the available literature. Most likely, though, the Prague Catholics are retroactively granting baby jesus all the qualities admired of his adult counterpart, including his death. Why not make a statue of serene, elegant infant Jesus nailed to the cross? That’s what those sick, child-worshipping monks really want!

Worse than the absurd contradiction of the messiah babe, in my eyes, is the extremity of the worship he receives. Monks venture from this Church all over the world to spread the good word, not about Christianity or Jesus per se, but about this miracle-granting statue. And following those prayer guides they hand out is a humiliating experience, as you really have to cut yourself down to ingratiate yourself with this little devil statue.

For instance, this is the FIRST DAY prayer: “Sweet Infant Jesus, here at Your feet is a soul that, conscious of its nothingness, turns to You, who are all. By Your Divine Infancy, O! Jesus, grant me the grace that I now ask (express it) if it is according to Your will and for my true good. Do not look upon my unworthiness, but rather on my faith and show me Your infinite mercy.” And don’t forget the “weak and worthless” self-loathing on Day Seven. Can’t you love yourself and love the infant holiness?

These Carmelites have a serious inferiority complex, debasing themselves, grown adults whimpering and pleading to this little doll. This doll should be whimpering to them! Arguably, though, infants will always be superior to adults, if purity and lack of sins is your measuring stick.

For those of you lucky enough to be in Prague, or to own a likeness of the Infant Jesus of Prague statue (ahem, Rachel), here are some more prayers to declare your utter worthlessness and desperation to the retroactively holy one himself. For you cynical, ironical types, the prayer for students is the best...

PRAYER REVEALED BY OUR LADY to the Venerable Fr. Cyrill O.C. D.:

“O Infant Jesus, I have recourse to You and ask You through the intercession of Your Holy Mother to help me in my need (you can mention it here), for I firmly believe that Your Divinity can help me. I love You with all my heart and with all the strength of my soul. I am truly sorry for all my sins, and bet You, O good Jesus, to give me the strength to conquer them. I shall never offend You and I am ready to suffer rather than to cause You pain. From now on I want to serve You with complete faithfulness and for love of You, O Divine Infant, I will love my neighbor as well as myself. Omnipotent Infant, Lord Jesus, again I implore You, help me in this need of mine (mention it). Grant me the grace of possessing You eternally, with Mary and Joseph and of adoring You with the holy angles in Your heavenly court. Amen.”

PRAYER FOR THE HEALING OF A SICK PERSON: “O Holy Infant Jesus, lord of life and death, I bow before You, unworthy and miserable sinner that I am, to implore You to cure (name the person on behalf of whom You are asking this blessing) who is so dear to my heart. He (she) is in great suffering, wracked with pain, and can find no relief except in You, in whom he (she) puts all his (her) hope. Relieve him (her) in his (her) agony, o heavenly Doctor, free him (her) from his (her) suffering and give him (her) perfect health, if that be Your Divine will and for the good of his (her) soul. Amen.”

PRAYER FOR A STUDENT: "O Infant Jesus, eternal Wisdom made flesh, who shed Your blessings so generously on all, and most especially on schoolchildren and students who trust in You, please look kindly on me as I implore You to guide and assist me in my studies. You, o God made Man, Lord of all learning, source of all understanding and memory, come and help me in my weakness. Enlighten my mind, give me a ready ability to acquire knowledge and truth and the capacity to remember all I learn. Be my light, strength and comfort in moments of special difficulty. By the grace of Your divine Heart may I do all my school tasks to the best of my ability and gain the utmost profit from them, so that I may get good marks and, most important of all, be moved up next year. To merit such favours, for my part, I promise to perform faithfully all my duties as a Christian and to love You more and more. O Sweet Infant Jesus, keep me always under Your protecting mantle and be my guide, not only on the path of learning, but above all on the path to eternal salvation. So be it!”

These praying students are selling their souls to a doll! Maybe school is especially tough in the Czech Republic, I wouldnt know, but in the states, most people get moved on to the next grade without even trying, much less making insane promises to a wax doll. Study and hold tight onto your souls, children!

I wonder how much of a trial and error process goes into devising prayers like these. Did the monks test their effectiveness and then re-word them for better results? If you, my readers, come up with versions of these prayers that reap greater riches than the original versions, please email them to Prague Blague, and I will alert the monks. Also, if after reading this blog entry you wish to become A Missionary of the Infant Jesus, please go to http://www.santuario-gesubambino.org/missioni for more information.

Tuesday, March 29, 2005

anecdotes from team botmania

THE CANDLELIGHT MOMENT

the day before yesterday, we took a short day trip to sinaia, which is a ski-resort town about forty-five minutes away by minibus. darling and i both had to pee before we got on the minibus, and were displeased to find that the station only had those female urinals. we dealt with it, though, and went upon our merry way. but then we both had to pee again once we got there (we had three cups of coffee each that morning), and, after the last experience, we were prepared for the female urinals, but this is not what we got. we got female urinals sans electricity! they hand you a candle when you go into those dark, disgusting cubbies with their dark, disgusting holes in the ground. it was all sort of romantic, really.

'PUSSY' KISS KISS

we ended up taking the fast train back to brasov, mainly because we didn't want to stand up on a minibus (the seats were full). right after we entered the compartment, a cute, young romanian guy handed me a back of potato chips and said 'you want?' well, yeah i want it! okay, so then he left for a while and we chowed down on the chips. but later he came back and said 'speak english?' we told him we were from the states and he nodded and smiled, then sat there for a while and got up and left. when we disembarked the train, he said 'bye bye! ciao! pussy!' and then blew us two kisses. kristen and i looked at each other and then at ronen. did he really just call us 'pussy?' oh my gosh! we were mightily offended. later, we were recounting the story to an english friend of ours who used to live here and she laughed and said 'well, you know pusi means little baby kisses, don't you?'

oh! that's actually pretty endearing, and not at all offensive, like we imagined. poor guy, probably doesn't know why we looked so horrified.

WEREWOLVES

yesterday, we again decided on a hiking day, only the sunshine has left us and now it is cold and rainy. we wanted to hike up to where the brasov sign (very similar to the hollywood sign, except is says 'brasov') is, and then take the cable car down. we walked through the rain and mist for a good hour and a half or more. we couldn't even see fifteen feet in front of us. we ended up in this terrifically creepy field bordered by dead, black, gnarled trees. kristen posed as a vampire by one of them. then we found an old abandoned house and went inside. we were exploring around the back of it when these two wild dogs barked at us. they were probably werewolves. or weredogs. it turned out that we were right next to the cable car station, so we went there. the dogs followed us menacingly. we saw an empty restaurant inside and heard voices, but we knocked and nobody answered. there were probably only vampire ghosts in there. we got freaked out and rapidly retreated down the mountain, where we found a market with spinach!

BLING BLING

our hostel bosts the only jacuzzi in an european hostel. unfortunately, the jacuzzi is in a private room. well, the private room (finally!) cleared out last night, so maria let us use the jacuzzi, as long as we paid for the hot water. kristen, two english girls who are both named laura, and myself all climbed in the jacuzzi, which is the size of a small bathtub, and squished ourselves in there. we also brought gold medallions, champagne, and a video camera, and then we made a rap video.

COLD KIDNEYS

the hostel is owned by a charismatic romanian family. there is maria, the primary owner, who talks faster than anyone could possibly think and gives the most brutal backrubs imaginable. then there is silvie, her daughter, who can't stop dancing and laughing, and diana, the other daughter, who is shy. and greg, the husband, who likes to muss people's hair. one day, darling, ronen, and myself were all lying by the empty pool in the sunlight and silvie started yelling at us for getting our kidneys cold like that on the pavement. then later that night, maria pulled our ears for getting our kidneys cold on the pavement (silvie told her), and then she knocked me on the head for unintentionally letting my kidneys show under my pajama shirt (which was riding up). she says that i shouldn't blame anyone but myself when i get sick. i love this family.

okay, aussie dude is done with the net, so i ought to peace out too.

Saturday, March 26, 2005

more than words

okay awful title, but the truth is that i feel overwhelmed. so much has happened in the past week or so, that there is no way i could possibly document all that i want to. i want to write about vienna, because i loved it and had several of those important "oh, so this is the answer" moments. i guess the thing i wanted most to blog about while i was there was going to freud's apartment and waiting for the answers to come to me (because so many had been in the previous few hours) about whether i wanted to go into psychology or literature. what i left with were not answers so much as some postcards and some dorky pictures of myself looking psychological on the stairwell and ponderous in the consultation room. i also really wanted to talk about the schonbrunn palace, which was the most ridiculously beautiful and also aristocratic-like place i've ever been. it's also home to the oldest zoo in (i think) europe, which is also one of the happiest places on the planet. we ate some delicious austrian fried garlic pita thing called a langosse and some ice cream and we looked at penguins (!) and some families of wart hogs and we took pictures of us jumping all over austria. i' ll show you later, hopefully. anyways, so that's... oh wait... no, one more thing... we went to an all you can eat sushi restaurant where the sushi came out on a conveyer belt and i ate so many fried bananas that i almost threw up. it was incredible. okay, so that's austria in the tiniest little nutshell i could manage.


now i'm in romania. what a sad life i lead, right? actually, i have been frequently having moments where i look around at where i am and who i'm with and what i'm doing and wondering how my life has taken me here. i keep saying "where are we? who are we? how did we get here?" i'm in friggin romania! what am i doing here?!

i should say that i've never liked a place more than i like this place. i mean, first there is the eerie beauty, which i briefly described in my last entry. i know why the vampire legends came from transylvania. we went hiking through the forest all day today, and at one point we came upon a wider part of the trail that was lined with thick, tall, dark green trees. the brush around was all grey and black and everything was so silent that the slightest movement of wildlife sounded like an avalanche. i told kristen that my spider sense was working overtime. i was almost positive that a vampire bear was going to leap out of the forest and turn us in to night creatures.

but vampires are the tiniest part of what makes transylvania the best place ever anywhere. the place is so untouched by mass tourism that people actually still like americans and view us as somewhat exotic (in a positive way). today, when we started on our hike, our method was actually just to walk towards the mountains until we found the trail heads that these british blokes from our hostel were talking about. we ended up on some private property where some kind of ruckus was being made from behind a fence. after we stood in a state of paralyzed confusion for about five minutes, i peaked through the fence and said 'poiana brasov?' which was the name of the place we wanted to hike to. one man walked up to us and said 'speak english!' and so we told him we were looking for a trail to poiana brasov. he was very pleased about getting to help us. he led us through his farm (it was a yard, i think, but there were so many animals that i will call it a farm), where a large group of people were trying to break in a horse. we avoided the bucking horse, only to be approached by several half-wild barking puppies who kept bumping into my legs. then a turkey started following us and loudly gobbling. the chickens all kept to themselves. our new friend took us along the road we'd just come from, except on his side of the fence, and showed us a path through to the outskirts of town, where you can pick up the (extraordinarily well-marked!) trails. before he left us, he said something almost unintelligible, but which included the word 'bears.' so that sort of freaked me out.

we walked over this little hill and ended up in someone elses backyard with more barking half-wild puppies, and traversed the most picturesque cobble-stone sidewalks through these colorful delapidating houses until we found a road that went by a stream. we followed it away from town, and i'm almost positive that we were the only non-residents who'd walked those streets in a while, because everyone seemed to know each other and were all bewildered (in a friendly way) by us. we found our path, jumped on it, and happily hiked all the way to some raod we didn't recognize, where we jumped on another path and happily hiked it to a brasov overlook point, where we ate sandwiches and met more superfriendly locals who wanted to walk us almost all the way to the path they thought was best for us to get back to town.


mmmmmm. what a day.



yesterday was also the best day ever. (i've been having several 'best days ever' this week.) we went on a mini-bus tour with greg, the hostel-owner's husband, which ended up costing us twice as much as promised, but was also very pleasant. he took us (and two british guys named joe and dan) to the castle at bran, which is billed as 'dracula's castle', but confidentially, it's just a vampire-ish looking place on a hill that vlad tepes may once have attacked. it was a nice castle. we took a lot of cool pictures. then we bought some plastic fangs and posed with them later that night under the full moon. i'll show you those later, hopefully. after bran, we went to rasnov, which was way better than any other castle i've been too. again, because tourism isn't such a huge thing here in romania, the castle is just now being renovated and spruced up, which means that it is still authentic-ish. also, because romania is known as the 'wild west' of europe, meaning basically that it still, in some ways, operates as if it were from another century, people use horses and carts interchangeably with cars. so, not only did we get to see a cool, authentic fortress/castle, but we got to meet some of the workers, who were equipped with horses and carts to carry all of their materielle. by meet, i, of course, mean say 'salut' to. according to greg, that means hi. romanians shares a lot of words with other romantic languages. it is the least slavic of eastern european languages. this is helpful.

last night we hung out with the german guys who just wanted to party like anyone else. they were funny. i'm not sure there's too much more to say about that. it was really fun though, and we all ended up staying up later than we expected for our big night on the front porch of the hostel.

the hostelling experience is interesting. it really does give you and instant community, and everyone is from different countries and different backgrounds and different decades, even, but everyone also speaks english and shares the same passion, which is travelling. one of the guys who works at the hostel, an english guy named nick, is most proud of the fact that he's travelled to albania. he talks about it all the time. he's been almost everywhere in world, but mostly he is proud of the four days he spent in albania, because it was so difficult to travel to. he said that when he was in albania, one man tried to be his tour guide for something like 50 euros a day, and nick's response was 'i'm not a tourist; i'm a traveler.'

i've been thinking about this label. there is definitely a difference between the two, and i've not heard anyone articulate it so well until nick did. i've met so many people over here who, for one reason or another, don't want one home. when you aren't at home, you make fast friends, and reasonably close friends. this morning, after our german friends left, the landlady made up their beds. i looked at their made up beds and felt a little sad. i made a joke like 'in and out of our lives just like this.' and it was sort of true, though. i like these people i've met, and i feel as close to them as some of my acquaintances from austin or birmingham after only knowing these guys/gals a few days. but all this traveling has also made me crave a rest. part of me never wants to stop traveling, but another part of me wants to go home. i'm guessing this is why people like to travel with significant others, because when you find someone you love, they can become a sort of mobile anchor. for instance, i've known kristen d. for only a few months, but i feel like we've been friends forever. she's my best friend here, easily, and i think part of it is because we've become sort of like traveling anchors for each other. but what about these travelers who go alone? my next project is going to be to toss this around in my head for a while and talk to a lot of homeless nomads.

okay. it's time to sleep. this entry only says 1% of what i want it to. good night, transylvania, i love you...


p.s. i'm not editing this tonight, or maybe ever. muah ha ha ha ha

Thursday, March 24, 2005

nicole in transylvania

'hey guys, i have an idea, let's go to transylvania on the full moon right before easter and hang out alone on the deserted street by the black church.'

nicole b. 3-24-05. one hour before midnight.

no no, seriously. it's not THAT creepy here. actually, it is beautiful. it's only a little creepy. the street by the black church was lonely, true, but that's only because the main square is on the other side of the black church. the church is huge, and actually black, from a fire that happened some time ago (i can't get too specific, unfortunately, because i don't know the facts just yet).

i don't really feel like i just got off of a twenty hour train ride. my stomach sort of hurts from junk food and i'm a little bit dizzy, but i think that's because the computer screen wobbles everytime i type a letter. the twenty hours really wasn't so bad, mainly because we slept for 12 of them. we kept being woken up about every two hours for passport checks. we actually got our passports stamped five or six times, so i guess that means we went to five or six countries? the way we figured it, only a slightly illogical route would've taken us through slovakia, austria, hungary, and then romania, but that still doesn't account for the other two passport stamps, so i'm just gonna say i went to, hmmm, lets say belarus and ukraine, just to confuse people.

the highlight of the train ride was sunset. we were already in transylvania by sunset this evening, and, for some reason (probably having to do with warding off the vampires that came to celebrate the full moon and protest the easter celebrations), all of the romanian farmers decided to light little fires on their property at dusk. the sunset was gloomy and colorless, and we hit it right as we were traveling through one of those picturesque, dilapidated towns that doesn't look like it has renovated any buildings since the seventeenth century. then, as we were on our way out of town, ronen decided to 'go exploring' around the train, leaving kristen and myself alone in the car. just at this moment, i looked out the window and saw an entire black hillside covered in some strange fire-pattern. like little fires were lit all over it in this huge squiggly, semi-circular shape, and in the middle were two black, dead trees. i sort of half-squealed and grabbed kristen and made her hold me while we marvelled at the quiet creepiness of the scene. on the other side of the hill was a faint red glow; there must have been fires there too.

romanian countryside is unlike any other countryside i've seen. the plains are as flat as houston plains, but they have sort of louisiana style marsh-swamps on them, presumably from the melting ice now that it is getting warmer, and then hills and mountains suddenly spring from the plains, as if a child had drawn his conception of what mountains were like. flat, then bumpy all of a sudden. and, of course, there are little fires everywhere. and also tons of gigantic balls of hay with sticks poking out of them. oh oh, and people riding bicycles and staring and waving at the train as it passed by--- old people on bicycles. actually, most of the old people on bicycles were in bulgaria.

... and now, my friends, i have to wrap this up. kristen and ronen are done eating and i'm tired and dizzy. i'll be back tomorrow, hopefully. i should at some point also tell you guys about vienna, which was (predictably) marvelous. and i saw penguins! those of you who know me personally, must know about how much i love penguins! okay okay. till tomorrow then...

p.s. tomorrow we're going to dracula's castle, i think. but i hear that he never actually lived there. k bye

Monday, March 21, 2005

Getting by in Poland

This is Rhys, still in Poland. I like it here, but I don't think it's my future home. The fact that everyone here is reasonable and un-pretentious is a plus in some ways, but it also means that there are fewer artists and interesting people. I used to haughtily look down on pretentious people from my lofty, exclusive mountain of non-pretentiousness, but thanks in part to a stirring defence of pretentiousness Nicole gave me a while back, I've come to almost admire it a bit. Would "Who is Jim Holt?" have come into existence without a certain amount of pretentiousness somewhere on someone's part? Probably not.

Nicole should be back in Prague by now after a life-altering adventure in Vienna, but you wouldn't know it from reading this blog. Nicoooooole! Wheeeeere areeeee youuuuu?! I'd like to harp on the absurdity of how often we've blogged here in backwards Crackow while Nicole never came within 200 metres of the internet in futuristic Vienna, but having a free computer with internet at the doorway to our hostel was kind of a big factor in that. What if Nicole came back to Prague completely different? Could she be a murderer now, or an architect, or an insane fan of Motzart? I'm actually kind of scared to go to Prague and find out. What if she tries to kill me and Rachel, or tries to re-build our apartment in the Baroque style, or makes us listen to Mozart's 9th over and over until we get sick and have to jump out the window? For now I am safe in Krackow, full off a banana, marveling at all the synchronicities in mine and Rachel's thoughts. Here's a blog entry that she wrote about being in Poland. I couldn't agree more with her version of the events:

I'm sitting right now in the lobby of the hostel Rhys and I are staying in in Krakow, Poland. Sad that we change the K to C in English, huh? It looks so much nicer in polish, complete with the little hat over the o...if only I knew how to do that on this keyboard.
Right now The old man behind the desk is arguing with an old woman with a fur trimmed coat. I think it is a joke argument though....they both keep pausing to laugh.
A lot of people wear fur in Poland. Yesterday I saw so many to-the-floor orange and gray dead oddities draped over people's shoulders that I wanted to cry....
But besides that, Poland is tops. This is my mother land. I can't deny it, I'm Polish. Well, I'm a mutt, but I'm more Polish than anything else....25%.
Growing up in America, Poles are subjected to a lot of jokes about their culture. So are lots of other cultures, but I mean, come on, the Poles have it rough. There are volumes and volumes of Polish jokes! We get picked on more than the blonds!
In grade school and junior high, everyone was Irish, and I always wished I was Irish too. I'd lie and say I was Irish, and the listen to the kids tell their Polish jokes in the playground. What was wrong with Poland? I wondered. My grandma was from Poland! She spoke Polish....she didn't seem stupid...
Yet, as a result of this early experience with shame in my people, I've always sort of hidden my Polish heritage, even until today.
Why still? Maybe I'm just used to it. If you were to ask me what I 'was,' even a few weeks age, I would play up my Italian roots, mention the small bit of Scottish and French I've in me....but somehow always leave out the Polish.

How do you get a one armed Pole to fall out of a tree?
Wave!

No more of this though, folks. I have become an ocean of Polish pride in the last 24 hours. Poland is a beautiful place. Riding in on the train just as the sun was rising is one of those experiences I will never forget as long as I live. We passed a tiny village full of cottages fit only for a midget race, complete with a church in the center, also to scale. We passed huge industrial centers, spewing gray smoke into the pink sky. As far as you could see was green green countryside.
But Poland isn't just looks, although all the people (at least the women, since I can't tell if men besides Rhys are attractive) are quite nice looking. This is a country with a rich culture and a very sad history. Poland has been taken over and stomped on for hundreds of years. It's relatively fresh as a nation in its current incarnation. This government has only been in power since 89, when Communist rule ended. As the travel guide said, now is a great time to go visit "a nation rebuilding itself." Krakow is the only Polish city that's architecture was completely spared by the bombs of war, and it shows in every step you take down every street.
Go Krakow. Go Poland!

Today will be our second full day here. We took the night train on Saturday night and got into the city at 5 in the morning. The train was 9 hours, and neither of us slept all that much. We walked off the train tired and cold (its freezing here, about 28) and with no idea how to get to our hostel. A rather intense looking girl with gray hair gave us directions from the train station, and as it turns out we were only a few blocks from the station. Once at the hostel we were informed that our room wouldn't be ready until eleven.
"We're so tired! Is there anywhere we could sleep?" I asked.
Why yes, there was, said the cute Polish girl behind the counter. We ended up being able to sleep in another room for four hours until our room was ready.
We have our own room with four beds. The hostel is designed like a co-op should be, with lofts and tiny staircases, and everywhere odd mirrors and paint jobs. We have a queen size bed in a huge loft that takes up half the room. I hope to take some photos of it, and perhaps inspire JR back at Royal to assist me in creating a similar structure in my own room. The hostel also has free breakfast, free tea and coffee whenever you want it, and cute Polish girls who will tell you where all the rock concerts and vegetarian places to eat are. Yesterday we were told about the "most important bar in Poland," but have yet to go there. I wonder if she literally meant to say important, or if there was some other meaning she was searching for. I love language....

After we settled into our room, we walked around the city for hours. We saw the famous castle, wandered into many churches, ate popcorn, went to a carnival and then an English language bookstore where they were having an open mic. The mid 40s man running the open mic sat in a circle with its younger attendees, and kept reading his poems since everyone else was to scared to. He even read a really bad poem and told them that if they didn't start reading. he'd subject them to more torture.
After that, we went to a grocery store, bought chocolate, olives, and bread, and then stumbled across a Mexican food place. We found it because a man was dressed in a hilarious mariachi outfit and dancing around outside of it. It didn't work on most people, I guess, because we were the only people inside.
Mexican food in Krakow is funny, and the guac was the fluffiest I've ever had. We got appetizers, meals, dessert and a beer for about 15 dollars American. Krakow is pretty cheap.
Today we are going to see Auschwitz, and then maybe to an indoor go-kart arena in the south of the city.
I must sign off now and eat my lovely free breakfast. Hope everyone is doing well in the states....

Sunday, March 20, 2005

First day in Krackow

I never really thought about Poland before, so it's strange to be here. I don't know if I would raise kids here, but Poland is certainly not a country to be completely dismissed. We got to sleep in an empty room before we could check in, and I discovered a trick for falling asleep really quickly. You just think about quinoa milk. At country life back in Prague they had a sale on quinoa milk, which is just like soy milk or rice milk or oat milk or almond milk, except that it comes from that fantastic aztek grain, quinoa. It's white, liquid, and tastes like quinoa. Just thinking about it is very comforting and helped me fall asleep in that strange, temporary bed. We went to a carnival, a bunch of churches, the castle, and will soon go to an open mic. There are a lot of vegetarian restaurants here. We should be getting back Wednesday morning.

Overnight train to Poland

We took the overnight train to Poland, arriving at 5:30 in the morning. Neither of us got any sleep, we didn't have walking directions to our hostel, and we weren't to check in until 11 a.m. It seemed we were to wander Poland aimlessly for hours in the cold, but as soon as we got off the train, a young woman with gray hair gave us a map and told us where to go. We haven't done anything in Crackow yet, but just like Nicole, I loved it immediately. Everyone just seems very reasonable. Only exception: a British guy in the lobby of our hostel who is very fascinated with Slivovice. Rachel says hi.

Saturday, March 19, 2005

Land of the Jets

Tonight Rachel and I are taking the overnight train from Prague to Crackow. Nicole is in Vienna, curly haired Issac is in Berlin, Benjamin is in South Carolina, Carrie Anne is in Austin, and it just didn't seem right for us to stay home during the American spring break. After that nightmarish excursion to Berlin a few weeks back, I was sure I would never leave the comfort of Prague again. But then came Rachel, with her wanderlust, her fluent Polish, her deep Polish roots, her love of the Polish people, and her unequaled understanding of Polish culture (Vienna was too expensive). I just want to go to the land that coined the phrase, "When you're a Jet, you're a Jet all the way, from your first cigarette to your last dying day." I'm still bitter about being cast as a Shark. That just made no sense.

Thursday, March 17, 2005

Gulu Gulu gets what's coming

This week's Prague Post has a review of that sinking ship of a restaurant, Gulu Gulu. Here are some of the highlights:

Ominous dining: Good intentions run aground on iceberg

By Evan Rail

March 17, 2005

I'm not certain what happened at Gulu Gulu, the Old Town cafe and restaurant, but it sure seems ominous. Everything starts out fine: It's got a great location at the back of trendy Tynska street. There's a casual, cafelike atmosphere. There are wall paintings like something Joan Miro's kids would have done after visiting Timothy Leary. But that's not the scary part. What's frightening is that someone composed a creative dinner menu with a number of interesting-sounding dishes. And then, apparently, this person simply disappeared.

Because what seems to have happened is that another, completely different person who had never heard of these dishes was then asked to prepare the food. In the process, many details were overlooked: Meals are inappropriately portioned, side dishes are limited and ill-prepared, garnishes are as boring as the most blase pub garland, and even simple tasks like grilling meat are not handled well.

Among starters, you may be tempted by the "mini skewer" of beef sirloin. This would be a mistake. The meat is tough and chewy, for one thing. For another, the accompanying side salad of rough-cut iceberg lettuce and flavorless tomato wedges is undressed, thrown upon the plate like an afterthought.

In that regard, if you ask for spinach or broccoli, you're out of luck. There is a "warm vegetable mix" that your server may recommend. Pay attention! This is another trap. Veggie mix is composed of chunks of partially cooked tomatoes, red bell peppers, zucchini and eggplant, very much like a ratatouille, only without the flavor. It probably goes without saying that the eggplant was not salted and drained before cooking, so each bite has the texture and taste of raw Mediterranean sponge.

With such relatively high prices and such confusing dishes (seafood en papillote with a side of plain iceberg?), Gulu Gulu is certainly not what it could be, ranking far below other restaurants in this category. Mozaika has the same sort of casual atmosphere, but the food is much, much better -- and less expensive. In the center, any Potrefena husa would offer better food at lower prices, as would Orange Moon, Kolkovna, and many other places. Why anyone would go here instead is, indeed, quite a mystery.

vignettes from nicole

1. rachel and i were walking on the side street between vodickova and narodni trida one bright afternoon when we saw a man drop a small black leather pouch. it looked deliberate to me, so i just pretended not to notice. but rachel stopped and half-whispered 'nicole!' i looked back and she was staring at the pouch and gesturing at the man, who was quickly walking away.

r:'nicole! open it!'
n:'i think he dropped it deliberately.'
r:'i know! open it!'
n:'i don't want to open it. you open it.'
r:'what if it is a bomb?'
n:'why would i want to open a bomb?'
r:'open it!'
n:'you open it.'
r:'what if it has money in it?'
n:'then you should open it. but i don't want to open it.'

then rachel went up to kick it and make sure it wasn't a bomb. we were both still alive after she kicked it, so she bent down and slowly unzipped the pouch. inside were several small tubes and what looked like a needle. she zipped it back up and we walked away.

we thought it'd be funny if we'd taken the pouch home and gotten really fucked up on mystery-drugs before rhys came home, but then neither of us are in to hard drugs, so we just pretended and told rhys that we shot up some mystery drugs.

2. the days are getting longer here, which means that my 6-7:30 jewish studies class coincides with sunset. the classroom has a huge double-window that looks out on a view of the prague castle ('prazky hrad' in czech). last night at the sunset, the castle was an obscure mass with towers rising steeply from it. the sky glowed intensely with pink and purple swirls. it was like someone had poured pink and purple acrylic paint in pools on a bright light. some black birds flew by in a flock. my professor looked over his shoulder and stopped what he was saying mid-sentence. 'ees bootiful, ma frenz. les go to wihndoe.' and then he turned off all the lights and we watched the sunset pink and purple, and then purple and navy, over the prague castle. this is where i live.

3. on my way back from jewish studies class, i saw a 100 kc note on the ground. i debated over whether to pick it up or not. there was nobody anywhere near, so i wouldn't be able to locate the person who dropped it. i picked it up. then i couldn't decide what to do wtih it. i thought it'd be good to buy some friends dinner with it or something. like give it back to the community or something. but then a 100kc is only work about 4 or 5 bucks, so it wouldn't be enough. i bought myself a bagel sandwich and a bottomless soda, and i felt sort of guilty about it, but also happy.

4. on my way to bohemia bagel, where i bought myself a sandwich and a soda, i saw a guy walking across the sidewalk with a bottle in his hands. without slowing down or changing the expression on his face, he threw up on the crosswalk. it was gross.

***

today is st. patrick's day. folks are going to the blind eye, but i have a bad scratchy throat and we're going to vienna at 9 in the morning, so if i go out, i'll be in by 11:30. that's my limit. i think i'm going to go eat vegetables and fruits now, to try to scare away this scratchy throat problem.

last week we saw dvorak's and karel capek's grave.

Wednesday, March 16, 2005

Life in Prague with Rachel

For English speakers, it's really impressive that the German language has a lot of single words to express complex ideas. I wonder, however, if German speakers are equally as impressed with all the really, really long English phrases there are to explain complex ideas.

Yes, I recognize that this is an atypical entry opener for me, but I've been a lot more philosophical about things since Rachel got here. The fact that she is completely fluent in German makes me think more about the German question in particular. Germany: what is to be done?

If Rachel got here a century earlier, she would have owned this place with her mastery of the German language. There isn't all that much German here anymore, since Austria was kicked out and Czech came back in vogue, but there's a lot more than in Austin, and Rachel's been milking it. So far we've been to the communism museum and on the Jewish synagogue tour, and Rachel goes for the German explanation cards every time. I have to read the English explanation cards, which makes her roll her eyes. Today she purchased a bunch of books, all of them originally written in English, translated to German: Ulysses in German, Catch 22 in German, and even the Complete Works of William Shakespeare in German! She gets really pissed off when restaurants have menu items in Czech and English, but not German. She tries to talk to me in German most of the time, which is kind of annoying, but with my knowledge of English and Czech, we're able to communicate okay. She even talks in her sleep in German, which is really frustrating, because I'm desperate to know if she's cheating on me in her dreams! She's right here. I suppose I could just ask her if she cheats on me in her dreams. I bet she would say, "Nein."

Today we went on a tour of the Jewish museums in Prague, some of which touched on the Nazi presence in Prague, and I got to thinking. Would flying cars exist today if not for the Holocaust? So many geniuses and innovators - and potential geniuses and innovators of future generations - were exterminated. Could one of them have been the inventor of the flying car, or have had an idea that would have led to it?

The Jewish synagogue tour is the best musuem event in Prague. It's even better than the Kubrick museum in Berlin. Yes, the Kubrick musuem was great, but it had one serious flaw: Kubrick made a bunch of amazing movies, especially 2001 and Dr. Strangelove, but then he got lazy and made three movies in 20 years - two good ones, and one merely okay one (decide for yourself which are which). Maybe it was his legacy that freaked him out. He didn't want to mess up and make a bad movie, so instead he made hardly any movies at all. I can relate to that strategy, but as a consequence, the Jewish museum tour in Prague was better.

How my life in Prague is different with Rachel here:

Before Rachel got here, I had only eaten out three times. I doubled that record about fifteen minutes after Rachel got off the plane. Right away I explained to Rachel the Czech people's "woman pays" tradition, earning myself a ton of free meals.

I read less and write less and sleep less, but live more.

I actually went into the Our Lady Before Tyn Church, the behemouth of Old Town Square. It's a little embarrassing that I never went in there earlier, but hey, I had grocery shopping to do.

I'm more philosophical about things.

I have someone to hold hands with. Which made me wonder... have there ever been siamese twins attached at the hands? If so, that would be really adorable.

Remember when I was all lonely and depressed about being in Prague, and writing stuff like, "Get here, Rachel!" Well, I got over my depression soon after that, but I still wanted Rachel to get here. And now she's here, and I'm even less depressed!

Oh, Rachel knows how I really feel. I don't have to tell anyone.

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oh the blind eyeeeeee

last night, darling and i decided to go to the blind eye for another 'blue grass' concert, although this time it wasn't austin, it was another woman. we got there for the end of her set because we missed the first tram by a few minutes and had to wait awhile for the second. our plan was to go, listen to music, come home, study, crash, get up and feel great about it all. the slumber party of a century! we ended up staying for 'a drink' after the show, which turned into four drinks and home by 3:30 am. (don't worry, mom and pop, we called a taxi.) that place just sucks you in. i just feel comfortable there. and i want to stay there.

and this is the thing. ever since we've found the blind eye, and the people there, i've felt so much better about being in prague. i finally feel like i'm connecting with the city, even if it is with other ex-pats. and i feel like i have a place to go, where i'll be welcome, where everybody knows my na-a-ame.

the other thing is that our last two house-guests (rachel and eddie) have made the place seem more exciting too. eddie showed us the bar and a bunch of other things. rachel wants to do everything and is very fun. and i didn't really feel like i had to like be a really hands-on host to either of them because eddie had his own thing and was really independent and rachel's got rhys to drag around when i want to be alone or do school shit. it's a win win win win situation.

well and another thing is that suddenly the weather is beautiful. i didn't even have to button my jacket today.

and another thing is that i really like hanging out with kristen d.

oh oh but the sad part is now that i feel like this is becoming my home, i have no more time left with it. we're going to vienna this weekend with the program. then next week we'll go to romania, which i am excited about, but also wish we had more time here and there. then my parents are coming for nine days, which i am also excited about, but i probably won't have that much time to do the stuff i've been starting to really get into doing here. like interacting with prague as a resident rather than a tourist. then i have a week in which i might have to travel back to the states for interviews, although that is looking less and less likely. then matt (my brother) is coming, which should be awesome and i imagine he'll take care of himself when i'm doing school stuff or whatever. but i really want to travel with him, so that's more time away from prague, even though i want to do it. then another week or so and the program is over! i feel like i'm already leaving prague and i don't want to yet! part of me wants to stay home from vienna so that i can be here and have one more available weekend in prague. but who passes up a free trip to vienna? not me.

i hate this. i know it sounds like i'm complaining. but all i'm complaining about is being too happy and having too much good stuff to do and too little time to do it. what i'm saying is i just realized this week how much i like this town, and not just because it is different and european, but also because there is a good community here that i want to continue to interact with.

in other news, i just re-connected with my old best friend from 6th grade, and i am SO happy about this. i still miss her, even though it's been ages since she left b'ham for charleston. oh taylor! i miss taylor! i'm thinking of driving to see her when i get back to the states. i would love to spend time with her again.

Tuesday, March 15, 2005

nicole

for days (days!) i've been wanting to get some real quality time with the blog. to come up with some new profound way to look at my travels and wow our readers with insights and lively prose. but now i'm here. i have time. i don't know what to write.

i want to write about anna and greg. i suppose i could just give an elaboration and an update. i'll copy it from an email i just wrote so i don't have to re-think about it over and over. i know they're will be some rehashing. last thursday, my friends anna and greg were coming back late from the european student dorms on a night tram. at one stop, anna saw a group of six skinhead kids get on the tram. they walked up to greg, who was sitting silently and inconspicuously in the back of the full tram, and asked him something in czech. he said 'nemluvim cesky' which means 'i don't speak czech' and they basically just started kicking the shit out of him. they would grab on to the railings at the top of the tram and jump up and kick him in the face. anna is sort of a tough, like very admirable girl. after she got over the shock of what was happening, she started kicking one of the nazis to divert attention from greg, who was being severely beaten. she said one of them turned around, smiled at her, and then kicked her in the chest and face. they jumped off at the next tram stop and a woman helped them call an ambulance. another american couple was beat up by the same guys right after greg and anna, and when they heard the ambulance coming, they ran towards it. anna and greg spent pretty much all the rest of the night and the next day in the hospital and police station. greg's face is smashed and bandaged. anna is mostly fine, but shaken.

i had a dream about her last night, but she wasn't being beaten by nazis. she was at a rape trial of six men who had raped her as a child (this didn't really happen, it was a dream fabrication). i kept crying at the horror of her experience and laughing at the absurdity and i tried to help her escape. then i woke up.





rachel is here. i love having her here. there's not really much to write after her terrific guest-post. team xod (that's the three of us) had a great day yesterday. i like how positive and energetic rachel has been about prague. she gets us to do things. i like that. my friends like her too.




i ran into corbett from austin who was teaching in korea for a year and now travels around hoping to eventually end up in japan with his lovely girlfriend. you might know him. he has really cool grey hair. he's pausing for a month in prague to take a toefl class so that he can be an english teacher. hopefully we'll get to hang out. he seems like he'd be fun to hang out with.


i'm having a lot of trouble concentrating right now because the kids in the study abroad office are all having animated conversations, which is nice (you know, bc they're all happy), but making it hard to concentrate.

last night we saw a bad ballet. i've seen three ballets in my life, and all of them here. the first two were so good that i didn't really understand what made a bad ballet- i just figured all of them were good. i'm glad i now know the difference between good and bad ballet. you learn something new all the time.

okay. good ballet: the movements are light and graceful. the dancers don't look like they are straining. they don't express emotion with their faces so much as with their bodies. the choreography reflects the theme of whatever scene is being presented. there is a plot. all the dancers lift their arms and legs to the same heights as each other, etc. etc.

bad ballet: no plot. random characters just randomly dancing pretty with no purpose. the pretty dancing really isn't that pretty, it's just spinning around and moving limbs in various directions. the movements look heavy and difficult. the dancers are all out of sync with one another and they forget where they're supposed to dance. people drop things. costumes fall apart on stage.

none of that is very articulate, but listen, it's beautiful outside and i need to get out of here.

read rachel's blog beneath this one; it's got more.

vergangenheitsbewaltigung

a real word, meaning 'coming to terms with the past' in the german language.

Rachel in Prague: a guest post from the horse's mouth!

Look how happy!

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This will be my fifth full day in Prague. I’m sure you are all wondering how it has been going, so this is my story so far:

I got to the airport in Austin early on Wednesday. I called a number of my friends and told them that I loved them, and that they should always remember this if I were to die in a plane crash. From Austin I flew to Houston and from Houston I flew to Paris on the famous Air France. As a first time international traveler, I was terrified that the Air France people would look at my ticket, look at my passport, and laugh. I thought they wouldn’t let me get on the plane. The idea of leaving the country seemed too unreal to me. But they did let me on the plane (I fooled them!), and I sat on the window next to a man going to Dubai to work as an electrician. He’d worked in Iraq for many months before. His work had something to do with the U.S. government and the war. I asked if it frightened him, and he just laughed and said no, and pulled out his Passport. Inside were 6 stamps for the Baghdad International Airport.
He was nice, but had big shoulders and dominated the armrest. I wanted some!
Anyway, the flight started out good. I took full advantage of the free booze and got some wine and a rum and coke. The vegan meal that I had so much trouble ordering showed up before everyone else’s, and I marveled at its deliciousness: cantaloupe, grapes, salad, carrot and celery sticks, rice, a big roll, mashed lentils with unmashed peas, and (my favorite) chick peas with curry. I was drinking and eating like a king! I thought the flight was going to continue on this awesome path….but then I made a mistake.
I originally planned to drink enough to make me sleepy so I could dream the flight away.
But then, after my meal was warming my tummy, the Air France attendant offered me coffee in the irresistible tone that comes from no one but the French. I accepted (damn!) and ended up staying up the entire rest of the flight, tossing and turning and trying to get to sleep. The monitors on the back of the seat in front of me kept mocking me. Four more hours to Paris? I’d think. No, I’m not going to make it.
We finally did get into Paris, and late. This terrified me because I only had an hour layover until my next plane, and the airport looked huge. We didn’t even pull up to a gate….there were stairs wheeled up to the plane. We were to get out on the runway and walk. Where I had no idea. I was panicking, and time was slipping away. When I finally started making my way out of the plane, I noticed a woman standing at the bottom of the stairs with a sign that said “Prague.”
“Hello!” She yelled, with another beautiful French accent. “Is anyone going to Prague?”
“I am,” I said, raising my hand as I trotted down the stairs.
“Are you Miss Osier?” She asked. She pronounced as it was meant to be, back before it got Americanized.
“Yes, yes I am.”
“Oh hurry, Miss Osier, we don’t have much time!” She grabbed the side of my coat and we started running to her van. She drove me half way across the airport, driving on the runways, and past empty, waiting planes. She dropped me off right by a flight of stairs.
“You board up there, in 22. Now hurry! Go!” I thanked her and ran up the stairs, excited by the adventure and excited about not having to wait for my next plane.
I ran up to the gate and then….found out the flight was delayed for 2 hours.
The anticipation started to kill me. I couldn’t wait to see Rhys. I’d missed him so much that the thought of seeing him made me want to burst. My little heart ran a mile a minute. I was really scared. What if he’d turned into Euro-trash? What if he didn’t remember me? What if he wasn’t at the airport to pick me up? What would I do then? I didn’t even know his and Nicole’s address…
(also note that I was also delirious from lack of sleep by this point. I had stayed up almost the entire night before I left, thinking I’d sleep on the plane and then when I woke up I’d be all adjusted to European time. By the time I landed in Prague I had been awake for nearly 40 hours.)
Much to my luck, Rhys really was at the airport. I didn’t even recognize him at first. He has really long hair now and was wearing his glasses. He helped me get my bags and we got on the bus. I just sort of stared at him and poked at his shoulder the whole way to his house. Was he real? Poke. Yep, solid. Not a figment of my imagination. The joy I felt was masked by my sleepy delirium. I was extremely happy. So happy. I felt like he’d come back from the Civil War or something. But it was only 2 months. Funny, it seemed like at least three or four years.
Rhys realized I was sleepy and decided to mess with me:
“And that over there is the national museum.”
“Really? Cool.”
“No, actually that was just a shack.”
“Oh.”
“And now we’re in Dresden.”
“Huh”
“Yeah, I bet you didn’t know Prague was so close….”
Etc, etc.
When we got back to his and Nicole’s apartment I dropped off my stuff, took Rhys out to eat at Country Life, a vegan eatery that delighted my taste receptacles, and then passed out. I woke up the next morning free of jet lag.

On my first day in Prague Rhys and I wandered the city. I told him to Vogue, and he did this

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Then Rhys has to go to a costume fitting for a Czech commercial he was in, and I went on a walking tour with Nicole’s program. We went to see this church and the cemetery next to it. Afterwards we went to the thrift store in the train station. I accidentally asked some gypsies for a cigarette, and they started yelling things to each other and I got scared. So we bought some popcorn and went to a ballet. It was free! Whoo! We even got to see this sign:

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Saturday, which was my birthday, we went to Kutna Hora, a small town with a bone church. The picture speaks for it self….this is the ceiling.

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After that, we went to another huge church and then took the train back home. I have a deep affection for trains, and this was the first time I ever got to ride in one with the little cubbys with privacy curtains. I pretended I was taking the train across the country, instead of for only an hour. Once home, I slept some more and then Rhys took me out to dinner at this place called Ratos which is also a dance club and has a hilarious website. We were attacked by singing bums who kept asking us for money and then danced around us, pulling cutlery out of their sleeves. They even accused us of being Swedish.
Most beggars don’t dance….just look like this:

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On Sunday, Rhys was in a commercial for “some red liquid,” so me and Nicole hung out at this place called Kava Kava Kava! that Tara from Royal recommended. We played on the internet for hours, but didn’t write blogs. I was reading the Golem, by Gustav Meyrink while she was working on my computer. The book was starting to get really good and scary. I was capitivated…and also terrified. That’s all here, right in this here city. We ended up running into someone from Austin at the coffee shop, someone Nicole knew, which was pretty random. When we left, I walked quickly.
Why? Oh, I was afraid of Prague! Stupid books. I woke up in the middle of the night after having a bad nightmare and couldn’t move. I was paralyzed in fear. I thought the Golem was going to get me. Luckily, he didn’t, and I woke up the next morning and went to the big metronome with Rhys and Nicole. It is on a huge hill overlooking the entire city. A statue of Stalin’s head used to be there, but now it’s a metronome. It is meant to symbolize the lives of the Czech people….sometimes good, sometimes bad. We sat up there and took everything in. We also took a lot of pictures of us looking tough and whatnot.

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Hanging out with Rhys and Nicole is awesome. We’ve created a team and have a secret hand signal and everything. Sometime before we go, we’ll have to go back to the metronome and have a picnic. Here they are trying to break into a car.
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After the metronome, we got on the tram and went to see the baby tower. According to Nicole, who is a wealth of knowledge on all things Czech, the radio tower was built by the communists. They built it because they wanted to dominate the skyline. After they went away, an artist was hired to “humanize” the statue, since everyone sort of hated it. The artist decided the most human thing there was is babies, so he made a bunch of them and they can be seen in this picture, crawling up and down the tower….

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After that long day of walking and looking and taking photos we ate some ice cream and I finally got my first look at the Old-New Synagogue, where, apparently, they have hidden the Golem that scares me so much. I’ve been interested in him and the old Jewish culture since I read “The Golem: Legends of the Ghettos of Prague” about a year ago. And I was infatuated with Prague even before then….I’ve wanted to live here since high school, when I got all into Kafka during English class and decided Prague was the place for me. When Thomas was having his going away party, he said “You know Rachel, when I first met you I asked you what you wanted to do with your life, and you said ‘Move to Prague, open a coffee shop, make lots of friends and write all the time'.”
I did? Cool!
Yes, Prague was my dream city. And it isn't disappointing.
And then it became even more of a dream city when I fell in love with the old tales of the Jewish ghetto in that book.
Little did I know that I’d actually be in the place I thought about so much in less than a years time. So, while Rhys’s departure was very sad, it did give me this once in a lifetime opportunity. A free place to stay for 16 days in Prague!
Anyway, back to the Golem. Apparently he is up in the rafters of the church. From the outside of it, there is a staircase that starts halfway up the building. It leads to a metal door that’s probably locked with a big skeleton key. The ledge that the staircase leads to has nails stickin up from it. They look to be about 3-4 inches high. The other ledges there, leading to two similarly blocked windows, are covered in these nails two.
See:

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There’s gotta be something in there. I really really want to go see. Even if it’s just dust.

Later we went to another ballet, and then to a very strange bar for spiced wine.

And now it’s today and I’m at a coffee shop with Rhys. Soon we are going to get a pass to all the old Jewish tourist attractions, including the Old-New. We’re going to find out all its secrets. Or die trying.

No, just kidding. We'll probably just take pictures and then make sandwiches. Delicious, tempeh sandwichs.

Sunday, March 13, 2005

okay- this is nicole, by the way

so i don't really have time to keep posting pictures, but i have some things i want to say, so i'm going to try to write a quick entry.

first, i thought i should talk about my friends anna and greg. they were on a night tram together late at night on their way home from some far away student dorms when anna turned and saw some nazis with swastikas tattoos approaching them. without provocation, the nazi kids started beating up greg- like kicking him in the face and shit. she tried to stop them and they kicked her the chest and i think the face too. the two of them spent all night and the next day at the hospital. turns out these stupid kids were going around just beating up random people. this sort of violence is not usual in prague, i hear. but one of the kids was evidently wanted for murder. this just further proves to me that i will from now on take taxis home from the blind eye, which is our favorite bar in zizkov.

now i'll talk about the blind eye. when eddie was here, he introduced us to the blind eye, which could be my favorite bar ever. the owners are really nice and let us go pick out music in the back. tonight we're going to watch a movie before the bar opens in their movie room. we've got a nice set of expat friends there, but the bar isn't totally ex-pat-ish. they've made a concerted effort to draw in czechs as customers. the only thing is that the czechs all speak english with the english-speakers, so it doesn't feel all that authentic, but i can also converse with them, which is nice. i've also met some nice swedes and scottish folks, etc., there.

the other night, austin (who is one of the owner's little brother and is also a bar tender) played a show there. looking at austin, you'd expect his show to be a bit raw, a bit crust, but it turned out that he is an incredible bluegrass artist. sitting at the blind eye, listening to austin sing his beautiful lyrics from the depths of his beautiful diaphragm that was all covered up with tattoos and beer-gut, i had one of those moments i was afraid i'd stopped having altogether. these are the moments when you feel like you're watching yourself from a younger perspective. i wondered how i had come into this world where my friends can make such moving music in their own dive bar in their own corner of prague. who was i? i felt like i was fifteen years old, envying the life of an older acquaintance. but it was my life. i'm here.

i have so much more to write. i have no time to write it. i miss everyone. and HAPPY BIRTHDAY AMY!!!!!!! (two days too late, but HAPPY BIRTHDAY!)

p.s. rachel is here. it's really fun to hang out with her. HAPPY BIRTHDAY TO RACHEL TOO!!!! and we went to kutna hora yesterday and saw, among other things, a church where all the decorations were made of human bones.

more later, hopefully. more later.

no time for a blog, so i'll put up pictures of the bone church

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Wednesday, March 09, 2005

A hush falls over the city of Prague... could this be the end of my waiter days?

“It is not very sympathique for me to have to tell you this,” Philip told me over the phone last night, “but…”

I doubt Rachel will ever admit it, and I know for a fact that Carrie Anne is too much of a professional to breach confidentiality, but I think Rachel has been secretly paying Carrie Anne to pray for me to lose my job at Gulu Gulu, so she can have more time with me on her visit (only a day away!). I admire Rachel’s ingenuity, and I would definitely love the extra time with her, but I hope she’s been paying Carrie Anne extra to make sure I at least have a job after she leaves Prague.

I had a bad day at work yesterday, and I think my perfect TGIF sitcom job is in serious jeopardy of turning into something more like a critically heralded cutting edge HBO Original Drama.

After Saturday, I wasn’t supposed to work again until Thursday, if even then. But Philip called me on Monday night, asking if I could come in Tuesday, so I could train behind the bar with Anna and Tereze. “Nah, screw that,” I said. Actually, though I wanted the day off to prepare for Rachel, I think I said something more like, “Certainly, absolutely, yes, oh most definitely.”

I got to Gulu Gulu at 10:30 yesterday morning, but it was locked. I’d run out of minutes on my phone, so I couldn’t text Philip, and knocking wasn’t working because someone was blaring music inside. So I had to wait about 10 minutes before Tereze and Anna were able to let me in.

Turns out I just don’t get along with Anna and Tereze like I do with Petulka and that other awesome person whose name I never knew. A & T’s English isn’t as good, which makes it harder for me to idly chat with them. Beyond that, nice as they are, they aren’t people I would have become instant friends with even if we did speak the same language. My motivation then to “šhóót thě břěěžě,” as we say in Prague, was really low, and I think I came across as a quiet loner guy, pretty much the last category of person who needs to be working as a waiter/bar tender at an upscale international restaurant. Which is a problem, because I am currently scheduled to be Anna’s replacement as Tereze’s shift partner.

I did end up being somewhat sociable, but only when Petulka and, jeez, really, what is her name?, came in for some drinks. “He’s going to be famouse celebrity,” Petulka told the other one. “Nooooo,” I denied humbly, while thinking bitterly to myself, “It’s about time the Czech people acknowledged my imminent rise to super-stardom!”

I thought I did okay with Tereze and Anna, though. I learned how to make café lattes, espressos, café piccolos, cappuccinos, and hot chocolates fairly easily for never having thought about most of those drink before in my life (though perhaps not easily enough for someone who purports to have vest experience making those drinks). I also quickly figured out where the different wines were, how to tell at a glance if they were Czech, Italian, French, white or red, which bottled waters had bubbles and which didn’t, and the various buttons to press for Coca-Cola, Coca-Cola Light, Sprite, Fanta, and Soda Water on the soda dispenser. All the while, however, never fooled for a second that this was my true calling.

Apparently no one else was fooled either. Maybe always forgetting to put the lemon in the Coca-Colas gave me away. The only blatant mistake I made, however, involved me breaking a glass. It wasn’t breaking the glass that was the problem, though. It was cleaning up the glass!

That was, in fact, the most unusual event of the day. Earlier I got a hint of it when two customers came in and Philip whispered to me, “Those are friends of Frederique. Be careful!” Well, I was. So careful that I all but avoided them completely. In a bold, spontaneous move, I asked them if they needed anything else. They said that they were fine with their drinks. Damn, I’m good.

Frederique is the boss. He’s even above Philip, if you can imagine that, though I suppose Hans could kick Frederique out of the building in a merciless German heart thunk if he found out Frederique beliefed in Got like on idiote.

I had never seen Frederique, but heard that he was as short as his temper… which is short, as he is known far and wide for his screaming fits. He had a big business meeting yesterday, and the international investor he was wooing wanted some water. Frederique specifically requested that I, the new guy, complete the task. “Bring ‘im á moi!” he must have bellowed. I didn’t realize it then, but over everything else – writing the daily menu on the chalkboards, waiting tables, making coffee, pouring wine, putting lemons in Coca-Colas – bringing Frederique’s client this water was to be my big test of the day. A test I most definitely failed.

It should have been easy enough. “Fřěděříqué wantš ýóů tó bříng hím wátěř,” Anna told me, as if it was nothing. She didn’t know if he wanted bubbly or still water, so I expertly whipped out an Aquila and a Mattoni, and the corresponding glasses for each (just about every drink at Gulu Gulu has its own glass with the product name splashed across). I plopped the bottle opener on the tray, and then for some reason, probably for presentation, Anna put the glasses upside over the bottles (an important detail to remember for later, readers!).

Frederique was “upstairs,” and since I had no idea where that was, Anna told me to follow her. She dashed off, and by the time I got out from behind the bar, she had already rounded the corner and was out of sight. In a rush, I grabbed the tray, and as I lifted it off the counter, the Aquila glass flipped off its designated bottle and crashed to the floor.

A conundrum, but I didn’t realize how dire. I either had to delay Frederique’s water to find a broom and dustpan and clean up the Aquila vessel’s shattered remains, or I had to put Gulu Gulu’s customers and workers in mortal danger by leaving huge, blood-thirsty shards of glass at the bottom of the steps in the main hallway. Anna was still out of sight, waiting vainly for me around the corner, so the decision was all on my shoulders. Perhaps this too was a staged part of the test.

It takes three days to die of thirst. Broken glass can cut your foot in a second. Glancing under the bar, I found a hand broom and dustpan. AHHHNNNNTTT! WRONG! The whole process of breaking, finding cleaning implements, and making sure I had every piece of glass off the floor set me back at least five minutes. Not only that, but Frederique might very well have enjoyed the sound of a cook’s pained scream after a slip and a gash.

When I finally put a fresh Aquila glass on the tray (not resting on top of the bottle this time), Anna came back and led me at a more reasonable pace, so I could actually follow. She led me through a back door, past a courtyard, over a small hill, and to an elegant apartment building. She pressed a button, and after about 30 seconds (which Frederique doubtlessly spent drumming his fingers together and cackling), we were buzzed in.

Anna led me to a marble staircase with an intricate golden banister. It wasn’t narrow enough to be a spiral staircase, but it was circular, so that the inner part of the stairs was more treacherous than the outside. In my rush, I almost stumbled a couple of times – which would have been the end of me for sure – until I had a good sense to slow down and take the outside track. We must have walked up five floors, with brass cherubs, stone lion faces, and the stuffed heads of endangered animals benevolently watching over us the whole way.

Anna opened a door for me, and here I was in Frederique’s office at the top of the palace tower. Frederique was in a giant leather chair, holding court with the businessman, who might have been American or English, but thanked me in Czech after he chose… the Mattonni! If only I’d known! Had I looked closer at Frederique’s diamond-studded coffee table, I might have seen an angry stopwatch blinking emergency red.

“Happy now, Napoleon?,” I asked the emperor with a sneer.

Actually, I said lamely – in my best possible Czech accent - “Thěřě ýóů gó. Ěnjóý!”

Frederique seemed happy with me (evidently a sign that he couldn’t be more displeased), and since it hadn’t occurred to me that I’d been undergoing a trial all along, I skipped joyfully on my way back to the bar, little realizing that I’d failed catastrophically in Gulu Gulu’s eyes… eyes which stare at you from every wall of the restaurant, cubist and very colorful. Hopefully history and the international community will take a kinder view of my fateful choice.

Not long after I settled back in the bar, prepared to satisfy the mind-bogglingly diverse thirsts of our now completely non-existent customers, this charismatic born-to-be-a-waiter Slovakian named Petyr bounded confidently in the door and announced to Philip that he had worked at Gulu Gulu for three months over the summer, and would like the job again. Philip, it turns out, who has always been the face of Gulu Gulu for me, is rather new there. Anyway, it was certainly Petyr’s right to demand this. Though I am supposedly on the schedule full time starting on Monday, the sign looking for waiters who speak English is at the window. Savvy, my dear Frederique. Very savvy.

I wasn’t too worried at first, since Philip actually seemed put off by this guy. Philip demanded a CV, which he never asked of me, and acted miffed when Petyr didn’t have one. Petyr, who of course speaks perfect Czech and Slovak and decent enough English, said he was a student of English at Charles University. Philip, not betraying a hint of being impressed, pointed at me and said, “You ‘ave a good English teacher here,” optimistically implying that both Petyr and I could work at Gulu Gulu – doubtful, since Anna is the only one leaving. Philip, still appearing annoyed with Petyr (perhaps for initiating this exchange in front of me), reluctantly offered his phone number and went away. I figured that was that for Petyr, at least for the moment, but I must have missed a sentence or two, maybe some things were said in Czech, because Petyr stayed to chill at the bar with me, apparently waiting for Philip to come back.

He took off his hat, revealing a perfect waiter do, and asked for some soda water from the soda tap. “That iz thě frěě watěř, Í rěměmbér,” he bragged. This guy wouldn’t debate cleaning up the glass for a second. He even pointed out the button he thought I needed to push for the soda water, but anyone with half a brain could tell that was for the Sprite. I didn’t fall for the trap, and pushed the big button in the middle to fill his glass. “Summer was a long time ago, eh?” I thought with a smirk.

Then we went through the usual how are you’s where are you from’s.

“Ah, Těxas! Vůck, maín, Í havě fríěnd hěyré fřom Houžton!” “Houston? Puh! I’m from Austin,” I huffed. “Aůžtín! That íž capítal of Těxas, Í tínk!”

Yeah, you’re real smart, I thought. You know the capital of Texas, and I bet you think I couldn’t name the capitals of most of the countries in Europe without Nicole here whispering them to me. And, yeah, you’d be right. Jerk.

Petyr’s English was worse than mine (and, admittedly, my Czech worse than his), and I had trouble getting where he was from out of him. “Are you from Prague,” I would ask. “Přagué? Yěž, Í waž hěyré ín summéř, trěé monthž!” Finally I learned he was from god knows where in Slovakia. Man, in retrospect, I should have gone on about my sort of friend Tomas, Marie’s fiancé from Slovakia, and how I bet Tomas knew the capital of Slovakia. Then again, in retrospect, I shouldn’t have dropped that Aquila glass. Also, in retrospect, I should have studied Czech, not French, and should have spent more time as a waiter and less time cooking in the states. While I’m at it, I should have got Michael into that screening of Sean Connery Golf Project. Also, I shouldn’t have joined the Columbia House music club in sixth grade. And… oh, this is a bad game to play.

Petyr seemed like someone I could be friends with, if not for our unfortunate bitter rivalry. Still, I was the guy behind the bar, on the schedule for next week, and he was just some schmuck applying way too late. It became clear, however, that Petyr saw our current roles as a mixed-up illusion. He asked about my waiter experience, was surprised when I claimed to have some, and talked about how the tourist season was picking up, making it easier for unemployed waiters to find jobs. But he wasn’t saying this to console himself. He was giving advice to me! When he finally realized that Philip wasn’t coming back to toss me out and give Petyr the job on the spot, he said, “Góód lůck, máín,” and walked out the door.

By the end of my still more eventful yet too tedious to recount half shift, the cooks thought I was arrogant and thankless, the waitresses thought I was quiet and boring, Philip thought I was slow, Petyr was certain I was a temporary apparition, and I myself thought I was nothing but a depraved white flour chomping butter-eater. Was that the eerie howl of a wolf I heard as I walked out the door, or the malicious cackle of emperor Frederique as he tugged all of our puppet strings?

Then came Philip’s call late last night, apologetically giving me the decidedly non-sympathique news that I didn’t need to come to work today, because Frederique was training someone else instead, and he would call when he wanted me to come in next. I wonder who this mysterious trainee might be. Perhaps I’ll look up the capital of Slovakia and stop by for a chat.

If Philip has to fire me, I hope he doesn’t lose sleep agonizing over it. He needs to look out for Gulu Gulu, not me, and if that means firing an American fraud for some hotshot tri-lingual food service expert, Phil needs to drop the guillotine. Of course, Frederique, who must relish such bloodshed, will probably be the one to do it. I think, in any case, Rachel’s fears of never getting to see me during her trip may have been premature – and probably resolved with voodoo.

By the way, as I type this on my laptop, in the relative luxury of my fine fully-furnished room, Ukrainian laborers are outside my window banging on pipes, and our landlady is squatting on our bathroom floor, scrubbing it with a toothbrush. No, wait, okay. She was just squirting the toilet with a spray bottle.

Tuesday, March 08, 2005

puppy love

on our way to krakow, we drove through this very small, very cold town on the border between the czech republic and poland. it was absolutely silent and still until all of a sudden a dog came bounding out of one of the ugly gray apartment buildings onto the snowy sidewalk. the dog's owner followed less enthusiastically, but was certainly cheered by his adorable puppy.

that night, i had a dream that i got play with caesar (our cute little cute shih-tzu puppy in alabama) for hours! it was so great! then, last night, not only did i get to play with a dog (who wasn't caesar, but who looked similar to caesar), but i got to ride around on a bicycle with him! then i got to walk home from germany to prague with a friend of mine. that was nice too.

in other news, guy hasn't been emailing me. (what the f?!?!) but, like a timely, magic drug for my self-esteem, i was approached by a handsome young czech man last night. i was tired from the weekend, though, so i went home early, had a phone conversation with mum and pop and went to sleep. i'm still tired though. i feel asleep for a minute or two in class and my teacher made fun of me. but that's what happens when you put soothing music on and ask students to meditate on a text at 10 in the morning! at least that's what happens to me.

i'm gonna take a nap.

p.s. rhys is at work now! good news! thanks to eddie for finding rhys an occupation. yay!

Monday, March 07, 2005

krakow

saturday was one of my favorite days ever. krakow is one of my favorite places ever. i wish i had more time there. it was so pleasant.

the bus ride to krakow ended up taking about 4 hours longer than it was supposed to because we kept stopping at gas stations and everyone kept getting off the bus. i had bad insomnia the previous night and only got about 2 hours of sleep and then some asshole on the bus decided to put in reservoir dogs at 9am on full volume. the result was that i got about zero minutes of sleep for the entire 12 hours on the bus. but the other result was that i slept like a baby once we got to krakow.

kristen d. and i shared a room, of course, because it was in the stars for us. (by this i mean that had i lived in the dorms, i was supposed to be her roommate.) we're like minded. we both like to sleep and go out about the same amount. we both wanted to sleep. first we watched LOTR that was actually still in English, and wasn't dubbed, but had a voiceover in polish. you know, like when they're translating on the news. it was a little distracting, but i was so tired that i felt intoxicated, and so i didn't care a bit what it sounded like. i was just enjoying the pretty pictures.

the next morning we woke up early for free breakfast and one of zdenek's spectacular walking tours. the old town in krakow was a walled city, so to get to the center of town you have to walk through a gate. when we walked through the gates, there was a long, wide cobblestone road lined with shops and restaurants, street performers, and pretzel stands. it was so suddenly full of life and happiness that i pretty much instantly decided it was one of my favorite streets that i had ever been on.

the town square was just a few minutes down the road. the first building you come to in the square is a catholic church consecrated to the virgin mary. every hour a bugle call sounds from the tower of the church, but is cut off abruptly. the reason for this is that once, when the town was being invaded, a bugler was sounding a warning call from the tower, but was shot in the throat before he could finish it, so now the melody is never concluded. across from the church is a market, where i purchased some amber. and outside of the market is a rotunda (which is a romanesque church) and tons of street vendors and street performers (even in the middle of cold cold winter).

less than 10 minutes walking from the square is a castle. outside the castle is my favorite garden i've ever seen. because it was very cold in krakow, there was snow covering the entire garden. i've decided, though, that krakow is home to my favorite trees i've ever seen, and they look beautiful even when their leafless, and especially when they're covered in snow. the trees in krakow look black against the thick white snow and the bright white snowy sky. they have narrow trunks that burst into a hundred twisted, splaying, black branches about ten to fifteen feet off the ground. there are other trees there too, of course, but there are my favorite ones.

kristen and i returned the garden after zdenek dropped us off in the town square because i spotted a door nestled in some hedges, and became convinced that it was a portal to another world. kristen and i slowly circled closer to the little wooden door and actually heard some distant music that seemed to be emanating from it. so we both became even more convinced that there was a magic world on the other side of it. but i wish we'd stopped there because we made it all the way to the door to find out it was an antique music shop. i suppose that's a pretty nice thing to be in the magic door, but i would've preferred dragons and princesses. oh, they love dragons in poland, by the way. pictures and statues and models of dragons are everywhere! and there is also this strange tradition of putting little statues of pale, creepy looking monks on the streets outside of restaurants.

when we were let off, kristen and i also went first to the catholic church that zdenek told us was a 'must see'. it cost about 30 cents to get inside, so we grudgingly coughed up the money and went in.

!

it was huge!!!!!!!!!! it is famous for the bugle call, but also for it's alter piece, which is gigantic and sort of tacky. the whole place was a little bit tacky, but in a breathtaking way. there was not a single inch of that entire interior that wasn't decorated. there were greens and mauves and sort of subtle blues everywhere. and golds. there were skulls nestled in the remotest corners. there was a portrait of a women with a dagger in her chest and another one of a martyr being shot through with arrows, who was tied to a twisted tree trunk. there were little engravings of weapons (daggers, axes, etc.) all around, and pictures of different babies and old men with halos on their heads. there was a large crucifix and uncomfortable wooden pews, which were mostly empty in the visitor section of the cathedral, and totally full for the worship section. kristen and i sat on the pews for almost a half hour, just looking around in horrified awe. there were skulls hiding behind babies under bleeding jesuses. skulls everwhere! a picture of a crow holding an eyeball in it's beak. it was so full that kristen and i almost missed the GIGANTIC crucifix stretching between the two center walls, way above our heads. it must have been about fifteen feet tall, and about 15-20 feet above our heads, just floating there in between the walls, touching the high gothic ceilings.

while we were sitting there, admiring the grotesque beauty of the cathedral, a group of worshippers started chanting in unison from the back of the cathedral. it felt like a scene from a horror film. it was perfect. now i'm not a big doer of drugs. in fact, i'd say i'm one of the littlest doers of drugs. but i really wanted to be stoned in that church. is this sacrilege?

after the church, kristen and i were too cold to continue on outside. it was fucking cold there. yikes. so we went to an overpriced, posh coffee house full of hot polish guys. polish guys are hot, it turns out. we spent an hour there bonding because krakow is a great place to bond, it turns out. then we walked around some more and started making our way back to the hotel. we saw an open door on the side of the road and, naturally, went in. the noise of the streets instantly fell away, and was replaced with silence and a strange red light. we took some cool pictures and left.

something about the cold weather made us realy want to go swimming, so we put on our bathing suits and went to a water park. actually, i'm not joking. they have an indoor water park in krakow that's open until late at night. and the park has slides adn dragons spitting water out of their mouths and a climbing wall where you drop off and fall into the water and a sauna and steam room and a cool black slide that has flashing colored lights inside so that you feel like you're in that scene at the end of 2001: a space odyssey.

okay. people are waiting for the computer. this is an explanation of my saturday in krakow. sunday was spent at auschwitz, which was less fun, but still an extraordinary experience. i will blog about that sometime later, i think. it was so intense that i couldn't speak or move for hours.

okay okay. i'll go i'll go now.